What is the breakdown of watch brands?

The world of Fine Watchmaking (FHH) is a fascinating area of knowledge and precision that has long fascinated watch connoisseurs and collectors. Evaluating individual brands is not only a personal matter for each timepiece lover: a reliable source of information is the Foundation for Haute Horlogerie (Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, FHH), established in 2005. Before choosing which brand will become your favorite, it’s worth learning more about the division of watchmaking brands.

What is Fine Watchmaking?

Fine Watchmaking, also known as Excellent Watchmaking, is not just watch manufacturing, but a true art that encompasses technical excellence, creativity and applied art. But how do you evaluate watchmaking brands and the men’s watches and women’s watches?

As defined by the Foundation for Haute Horlogerie (FHH), Excellent Watchmaking represents the standards and values that distinguish a particular approach to timekeeping. At the core of this world are values such as identity, reliability, originality, legitimacy and ethics. It’s not only about making watches, but also about building a brand and a culture, based on tradition, innovation, science and technology. Excellent Watchmaking requires serious investment in production resources, research and development, creativity and continuous expertise. It is an informal pact between the brand, the maker and the customer that covers the full life cycle of a watch, from production to service, repair and restoration. It is this complex network of values and activities that determines the brand’s personality and its position in the prestigious pyramid of brands according to FHH.

Segments in the watchmaking market

There are various segments in the watchmaking market, each with its own distinctive characteristics and specific approach to watch production. The first segment,Historic Maisons, refers to renowned companies that have a rich heritage and tradition in watchmaking. They are known for upholding the highest standards of production, often employing handcrafted methods and using techniques that have survived for generations. The range includes vintage watches, referring to past collections and brand-specific elements.

Contemporary Brands, the second segment, are more dynamic and represent modernity and innovation. They are characterized by frequent experimentation with new materials and technologies and frequent adaptation to current trends and consumer preferences.

Luxury Brands make up the third segment and are known for the exclusivity of their watches, often using expensive materials, refined details and elegant design. These brands also invest in research and development to achieve the highest standards of quality and innovation.

The last segment,Artisans-Creators, is a group of independent watchmakers and artists who stand out for their creativity, individualism and passion for their craft. These creators often operate outside the mainstream industry, experimenting with unusual forms, techniques and materials to create unique and exceptional watches. Each of these segments brings its own value to watchmaking, creating a wealth and variety of watches on the market. The division requires expertise and knowledge of the industry. For example, Rolex considered by many to be a luxury brand, actually belongs to the Historic Maisons segment.

How are brands evaluated?

Watch evaluation is carried out through a two-stage process that includes both an objective review in each area of competence and a global assessment by each member of the Council. In the first stage, experts in each area of competence evaluate the brand based on differentiated, measurable criteria that are relevant to their area of expertise. They assign a score from 1 to 10, where 1 means that the criterion is not applicable, and 10 means that it is applicable according to the established scale. Each Council member then makes a subjective evaluation of the brand in the context of Excellent Watchmaking, awarding points from 1 to 10. The final score is a synthesis of objective and subjective evaluation, where the share of objective evaluation is 65% and subjective evaluation is 35%. The weighting of each area of specialization is individually determined depending on the segments, allowing a comprehensive evaluation and comparison of different brands.